Description of iris varieties, planting, cultivation, care in open ground

In spring, irises bloom in gardens. Planting and caring for them does not take much time from summer residents. Gardeners try to choose frost-resistant varieties with different flowering periods. In the middle zone, Siberian, German, Japanese, and marsh iris are grown.

Description and characteristics of the flower

Iris translated from Greek means rainbow. The name reflects the variety of colors of the flower. The root system develops in the top layer of soil. It comes in 2 types:

• bulbous;
• rhizomatous.

The erect, light green leaves of irises have a flat, sword-shaped shape and are located around the peduncle.

In the middle zone, irises bloom in late spring. Flowering ends in July. Externally, the flower resembles an orchid. There are:

• fouls - outer lobes (3 pieces) of the perianth, they are located in the lower tier and turned downwards;
• standards - internal lobes (3 pieces) of the perianth, located in the upper tier, they resemble a dome, curved upward.

The color of the outer and inner petals varies. The flowers are often solitary, in some species they are collected in inflorescences. They live 1-5 days. The fruit is a long, ribbed capsule. One contains 25-45 seeds. They are large and brown.

Popular varieties of irises

According to the structure of the flower, all rhizomatous varieties of irises are divided into 2 groups: non-bearded, bearded. Varieties are classified according to the color of the petals and are distinguished:

• two-color;
• monochrome;
• variegata - bottom red-brown, top yellow;
• bordered - the edge of the petals (border) is painted in a contrasting color.

Bearded irises

To make your garden irresistible, you need to decorate it with bearded irises. Their flower consists of 6 petals and a “beard” - a shaggy strip formed by short hairs. The “beard” is located in the area of ​​the base of the fouls.

Pros of bearded irises:

• abundant, long-lasting flowering;
• disease resistance;
• many varieties overwinter well without shelter.

The tall (up to 1 m) American two-color hybrid Supreme Sultan is popular among summer residents. The standards are ocher, the beard is bright yellow, the fouls are dark cherry. The petals are corrugated along the edge. Supreme Sultan blooms in May and June.

The winter-hardy, spectacular, tall Dutch hybrid Sultan Palace amazes with the beauty of its large (diameter 15 cm) reddish-brown flowers. The structure of the petals is dense, velvety, the edge is corrugated, the color of the beard is yellow.

Other, no less spectacular varieties of bearded iris:

• Super Hero;
• Toronto;
• Immortality;
• Champagne Waltz.

Iris germanica

A variety of bearded irises with a well-developed creeping rhizome. The German iris bush is formed by bluish-green flat leaves, pointed upward. The height of the plant is from 0.6 to 1.2 m. On the peduncles there are single dark purple flowers, yellow at the base.

This variety blooms in May and June. The roots of the Germanic iris are dried, used as a spicy seasoning, and decoctions are prepared to treat the throat and gall bladder.

Non-bearded irises

This group of irises lacks hairs (“beard”) on the foliae—the outer lobes of the perianth. Non-bearded varieties include frost-resistant Siberian, Japanese, Spuria irises and heat-loving Louisiana and California irises.

Siberian iris

The color of the flowers is blue-violet, diameter is from 4 to 7 cm. Plant height is 0.7-1 m. Siberian iris winters well, it can be grown from the 3rd to the 9th frost resistance zone. The leaves are 0.5-0.8 m high, linear, narrow (4 cm), light green, remain decorative until frost.

One Siberian iris bush can produce up to 40 peduncles (straight, branching). Flowering lasts 2-4 weeks and begins in June. This variety loves humidity and grows well near bodies of water.Popular varieties:

• Hohenflug;
• White Swirl;
• Hohe Warte.

Japanese iris

This species grows in Japan and the Far East. Plants are heat-loving. Growing them in the middle zone is difficult. According to flower size, varieties of Japanese irises are divided into groups:

• large, up to 25 cm in cross section;
• small, up to 14 cm;
• medium, about 17 cm.

The height of the bushes is 0.6-1 m. The following varieties are popular among gardeners:

• Mizutamaboshi;
• Mikawa Itsuhashi;
• Kamionomukashi.

Iris spuria

This variety is rare for Russian gardens. The flowers of Iris spuria differ in shape from other species. The shape of the internal lobes is elongated, tongue-like, they are widely spread. The lower lobes have a round plate.

Iris spuria blooms 3 weeks later and lasts longer than the bearded forms. The flowers do not fade for 7 days. The leaves are bright green, pointed, decorative. Varieties for temperate climates:

• Archie Owen;
• Zamboanga;
• Lankaran;
• Innovator.

Swamp iris

It is called yellow iris. This is a moisture-loving, perennial plant with a creeping, fibrous rhizome. The flowering period occurs in the last days of June, the beginning of July. In nature marsh iris grows along the banks of reservoirs.

The following varieties are grown in the gardens:

• Flora Pleno;
• Golden Queen;

Propagation of irises

Iris is propagated by seeds and by dividing the rhizome. Experienced gardeners prefer the vegetative method. Annual link is used as planting material. It is a piece of rhizome and a fan of 7 leaves.

How to plant irises in open ground?

The soil is prepared a month before planting. The area is cleared of weeds; per 1 m² of soil the following is added:

• 1 bucket of sand;
• 2 tbsp. ash;
• 1 bucket of humus;
• 0.5 tbsp. superphosphate.

Before planting, the soil must be watered once a week.

Preparation of planting material

Purchased planting material must be disinfected in a strong manganese solution and dried in the sun. Before planting, you need to keep your divisions in the light for 8 hours. The sun's rays kill pathogenic bacteria and dry out old roots. All cuts need to be powdered with crushed coal. Shorten the roots by 10 cm, leaves by 10-15 cm.

When is it better to plant irises: autumn or spring?

Planting times depend on the region. In the south, bulbous varieties are planted in October, in temperate climates - in September. For irises, the optimal time for planting is the end of August, beginning to mid-September.

Late autumn planting is undesirable. The plant does not have time to take root; in the spring, due to thawing and freezing of the soil, its roots begin to protrude from the ground. For better rooting, water the soil with sodium humate (0.01% solution).

Where is the best place to plant?

The soil must be prepared in advance so that it has time to settle. After shallow digging, at least 2 weeks should pass. On fertile soil, the plant fattens and grows a lot of green mass to the detriment of flowering.

When asked where it is better to plant irises, in the shade or in the sun, all experienced gardeners give a clear answer - in the sun. With a lack of light, perennials first stop blooming and eventually stop growing. Light partial shade in the afternoon is allowed.

To what depth?

There is no need to plant deeply; you may not wait for flowering. Small is also not allowed. The rhizome will freeze in winter. The cutting needs to be planted to a depth of 3 cm. To do this, you need to dig a hole (10 cm) and place a small mound in the center. Plant a division on it, straighten the roots, sprinkle with soil, compact and water.

At what distance should I plant?

At the dacha, irises can be planted in rows, maintaining a distance of 0.5 m between them.It is recommended to adhere to the “head-tail” pattern. The head is the part of the division with a fan of leaves, the tail is the section that was attached to the old rhizome.

Proper planting prevents intertwining of rhizomes. When planting irises in a circle, the “tails” point toward the center of the flowerbed. For tall varieties, the holes are spaced in increments of 40 cm, for low-growing varieties - 20 cm.

How to care for irises?

Proper care allows you to grow a flowering perennial. In August, it is important to feed the plant, as flower buds form at this time. In September, maintenance is minimal. The leaves of irises begin to turn yellow and die. It is better not to disturb the perennial this month.

Temperature

Perennial irises often freeze due to the fact that the roots are almost on the surface of the ground. To avoid this, mulch the soil in late autumn. In regions with little snowy winters, iris bushes provide cover. In spring, mulch and covering material are removed to prevent the roots from rotting.

Watering plants

Water infrequently. Overmoistening causes wet bacterial rot, which leads to the death of shoots. The need for moisture increases during flowering. In hot weather, young plants are watered every 3-4 days.

Feeding and fertilizer

During the season you need to carry out at least 3 feedings, the first one in April. At the beginning of the growing season, the perennial needs nitrogen; urea should be scattered around the perimeter of the bush. Some varieties bloom in May.

When buds appear, the bushes should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Mass flowering continues in June. It is worth feeding again with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.The third similar feeding should be carried out in August, when active growth of green mass and the formation of flower buds occurs.

Trimming

In June, iris flowers actively bloom. Withered flowers need to be torn off, already faded flower stalks cut out. Do not allow annual bushes to bloom. Cut out all flower stalks. This will speed up the development of the bush. The last pruning should be done in October in preparation for winter.

Transfer

The rhizome of the perennial is creeping, the bushes grow over the years. If there is not enough space, they stick out from the ground. Irises, if they are not replanted, degenerate and stop blooming. In temperate climates, transplantation is carried out in the fall: in September-October. It is at this time that the rooting of irises occurs faster.

In the south, the bush is divided and planted in the spring. Work is carried out from April 10-15 to May. The weather plays a decisive role. The soil should warm up.

Rules for transplanting irises:

• Water the bush well, dig it up with a shovel, and remove it from the ground;
• rinse, divide into parts, each should have 1-2 annual links;
• cut out all old roots;
• remove dried leaves;
• shorten green leaves to a length of 10 cm;
• Plant the cuttings in the prepared soil and water.

Sheltering irises for the winter

Bearded varieties of iris need to be covered for the winter. Their frost resistance may not be enough; the bushes may freeze over the winter. In early November, the leaves are cut in the form of a fan at a height of 10 cm from the ground.

After the onset of frost, the soil is mulched with humus or peat. A 10 cm layer is poured around the iris bushes. The mulch should cover the rhizome. When the threat of thaws has passed, the flowerbed with irises should be covered with spruce branches or covered with covering material, pinning it to the ground.

Disease and pest control

The perennial is susceptible to fungal infection. Sick plants are identified by external signs.

The nuances of growing in different regions of Russia

In the middle zone, it is recommended to mulch the soil after the temperature drops to 0 °C. In the Moscow region, cover transplanted bushes and varieties with low winter hardiness only after the onset of frost.

In the Urals and Siberia, all varieties of irises need to be mulched and covered for the winter. Pay special attention to young perennials and perennials transplanted in autumn. The bushes are covered with spruce branches and wooden boxes, and covered with snow in winter.

Decorative qualities

Bearded irises are grown in the garden for cutting. They look good in group and single plantings.They are planted along garden paths and mixborders. Rocky slopes are decorated with irises.

Varieties of marsh iris are planted along the banks of artificial and natural reservoirs. Dwarf varieties are planted in ridges, mixborders, and in the foreground of alpine hills. Miniature plants are grown in containers. Frost-resistant varieties are chosen for the garden.