Rules for planting, growing and caring for climbing roses in open ground

A climbing rose in a personal plot is beyond any competition. Thanks to its high decorative characteristics and pleasant fragrance, this flower crop effectively decorates any corner of the garden, creating a romantic mood and delighting with incredibly beautiful flowering. Knowing all the intricacies of planting and caring for climbing roses in open ground, you can achieve the desired results in the form of a healthy and profusely flowering plant.

Description of climbing rose

This luxurious plant forms perennial vines several meters long (up to 5 meters), which allows the gardener to quickly decorate any structure on the site. The branches of a climbing rose are not only long, but, most importantly, quite flexible. You can decorate arches, columns, trellises, and building facades in this way. The climbing rose is especially valued in landscape design.

In addition, another advantage of this flower crop is its huge range of colors. The buds can grow in diameter from 2.5 to 12 centimeters. The flowering phase of the climbing rose begins in June and lasts until the end of the warm season; depending on the variety, this period can be 30-170 days.

Conventionally, climbing roses are divided into 3 groups:

• Ramblers. Long vines bend well, their color is green, and they have thorns. The buds emit a faint aroma and are no more than 2.5 centimeters in diameter. The flowering stage begins in early summer and lasts 1 month.
• Climers. Large buds 4 centimeters in diameter are formed on 4-meter vines. They are similar in shape to the flowers of hybrid tea roses. Flowering is double.
• Claimings. This vigorous climbing rose is distinguished by its numerous buds, which are 4-11 centimeters in diameter. They are formed individually or in the form of small inflorescences. They are popular due to their double flowering and high decorative qualities. Wintering is tolerated painlessly.

Flower varieties

Among the most popular varieties of climbing roses are:

• Excelsu. This is a fast-growing plant with double flowers, which are 3-5 centimeters in diameter.The length of the shoots reaches 4 meters. The color of the buds is bright crimson. Frost resistance is increased, and disease resistance is average.
• Amethyst. The climbing rose blooms once per season. The shoots are 3 meters high, the thorns are quite large. Terry flowers of a climbing rose of purple-pink color are collected in groups of 40 pieces, forming luxurious inflorescences of large sizes. The diameter of the buds is almost 5 centimeters. Bush with a high level of frost resistance.
• American Pilar. The climbing rose is distinguished by its late, single flowering. The spherical buds are distinguished by their crimson color, but their centers are lighter with golden stamens. The shoots of the climbing rose are elongated, grow up to 4 meters, and contain large red thorns. Closer to autumn, the green leaves change their color to red.
• Blue Magenta. This unusually beautiful bush produces violet-purple buds. Their diameter is 6-7 centimeters. It blooms once per season, is not afraid of cold weather, and has average immunity to disease.
• White Flight. The climbing rose blooms once, its decorative qualities are high, its resistance to disease and low temperatures is average. The buds are pink, their diameter is 3-4 centimeters. The petals have wavy edges.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the positive characteristics of climbing roses, experienced gardeners highlight:

• lush and abundant flowering;
• most varieties bloom several times per season;
• large buds with a pronounced aroma;
• sufficient level of resistance to diseases and pests;
• high degree of cold resistance;
• variety of varieties.

The disadvantages of climbing roses include:

• the presence of large thorns;
• burning of buds in the sun.

Features of cultivation

In order for a climbing rose to have a healthy and luxurious appearance, you need to know how to properly prepare the site for planting, and what further care measures to take.

Optimal time and place for landing

Climbing rose seedlings can be planted in both spring and autumn. In areas with a temperate climate, planting work is carried out in late September-early October. And in the northern regions - in the spring, when warm weather sets in.

Considering the light-loving nature of climbing roses, it is better to choose a place for planting in a well-lit clearing protected from draft winds, where the sun shines in the first half of the day. In areas that are too hot, climbing rose bushes can get burned. Wetlands are also not suitable, since the roots of a branched rose can reach two meters in length and constant exposure to conditions of high humidity can provoke the development of putrefactive processes on them.

Soil preparation

If the site has poor soil, then organic matter should be added to the digging (10-20 kilograms per 1 square meter). These activities should be carried out in the autumn. Climbing roses will not grow on acidic soil; dolomite flour or lime at the rate of 500 grams per 1 square meter will help normalize the environment.

If the soil is chalky, then a soil mixture of turf soil and peat taken in equal proportions should be added to the hole. For two buckets of this composition use 0.5 liters of bone meal.

Selection of seedlings

When purchasing planting material, you should pay attention to the condition of the trunk. Its color should be white-green, but not gray or brown. Before planting, climbing rose seedlings are kept in water for 24 hours. Then the roots are cut to 15 centimeters, and the sections are treated with crushed charcoal.

The roots are prepared in Kornevin solution. Powerful branches are shortened by 15-20 centimeters, and weak ones are completely cut off.

Disembarkation process

The technology for planting climbing roses in the ground involves the following steps:

• Digging a hole in an area prepared in the fall with a depth of 60-65 centimeters and dimensions of 60x60 centimeters. A distance of 3 meters must be maintained between plants.
• Filling the bottom with a drainage pad (layer 10 centimeters).
• Adding a nutrient composition (5 kilograms), peat compost is suitable.
• Place the seedling in the center of the hole.
• Sprinkling its straightened roots with soil. To avoid the formation of voids, the soil is lightly compacted.
• Watering the bush with warm water (10 liters).

In order for the climbing rose to overwinter better, the root collar is sprinkled with soil, but no more than 10-12 centimeters.

Further flower care

Caring for branched rose bushes is not so difficult if you carry out irrigation measures, loosening the soil, feeding procedures and cover them correctly for the winter in a timely manner.

Watering and fertilizing

The optimal frequency of watering for roses is once a week in moderate dosages (10-20 liters per planting). You should not allow moisture to stagnate in the soil, otherwise there is a high probability of developing viral diseases and loss of decorative properties. Young bushes, in the first year, are fertilized only at the end of summer with ash infusion.

In the second year, the climbing rose is fed with organic matter and mineral compounds, but alternately. And already on the third - only organic fertilizers, for example, for 10 liters of water take 1 liter of manure and 1 tablespoon of wood ash. The number of procedures is 5 times; no fertilizer is used at the flowering stage.

Support for climbing roses

For a culture to weave unhindered, it needs support.A tripod made of wooden beams 2.5-3 meters long, as well as an arched structure, are suitable. Arches with rose bushes planted on the sides look especially beautiful; next year they will quickly entwine them.

Transfer

If the plant is uncomfortable, then replanting can correct the situation. It is best to carry out the manipulation in September-early October. If necessary, you can move the bush to another place in the spring. First, the climbing rose is removed from the supports and dug in a circle, retreating 50-60 centimeters from the bush. After which, it is carefully removed from the soil and its excess is removed. The algorithm for planting a bush in a new place is the same as for regular planting.

Loosening

To prevent oxygen starvation of the roots of the crop, it is necessary to loosen the soil after each irrigation. It is better to do this 2-3 after watering. The depth of soil cultivation is 12 centimeters. If there is a mulching layer - peat, it is periodically replaced with a new one.

Trimming

Removal and shortening of shoots is carried out in spring or autumn. Incapacitated parts of the bush, including frozen shoots, are pruned. If the rose blooms once, then after the flowering phase is completed, the second-order branches are completely removed. Pruning climbing roses for the winter should be done with a disinfected and sharp tool.

Wintering roses

In dry weather, it is recommended to remove the vines from the supports, collect them in a bunch and tie them. When the temperature drops to -5 degrees, the shoots are bent to the ground and secured with staples and pegs. After which, they are covered with agrofibre or film. This type of shelter for climbing roses for the winter is used in regions with severe frosts.But in areas with a warm climate, it is enough to cover it with spruce branches and wrap it with film material.

Diseases and pests

If agricultural practices are violated, the climbing rose can be overtaken by:

• Black spotting, which is easily identified by the appearance of brown and black lesions with a yellow edging on the leaves of the bush and shoots. Control measures: removing infected parts of the plant and adding potassium and phosphate.
• Powdery mildew, which appears as a whitish coating on the vine and leaf blades. In addition, the buds do not open. Control measures: the infected areas are removed, the bush is treated with iron or copper sulfate.
• Bacterial cancer, as a result of which growths form on the roots, which leads to the drying out of the plant. Control measures: roots damaged by the disease are removed, and the rest are disinfected with copper sulfate.

It is effective to use special fungicidal preparations against spider mites, small aphids, scale insects and roseate sawflies.

Reproduction

You can propagate a rose garden by seed, by cuttings, layering and by grafting. The main thing is to know the features of each method.

Seeds

First of all, the seed material should be disinfected by keeping it in a hydrogen peroxide solution for 30 minutes. After that, you need to place the seeds between two cotton pads soaked in hydrogen peroxide and place them one “sandwich” at a time in plastic bags. After signing them, you need to put them in a container and put them in the refrigerator on the vegetable shelf.

The seeds are periodically inspected, and if mold is detected, the cotton pads are replaced. You can expect sprouts to appear in 6-8 weeks.

The sprouted seeds are planted in peat pots and perlite is placed on top of the soil, which will prevent blackleg from developing. The containers are placed in a well-lit place and watered as the top layer of soil dries. The formation of the first buds is possible 8 weeks after planting, and flowering is possible after 4-6 weeks. Planting in a permanent place is carried out in the spring.

Cuttings

The most common and easiest way to propagate climbing roses is cuttings; even a beginner can handle it. Stems that have already faded and those that are still blooming are suitable as blanks. They are cut at the end of June and beginning of August at an angle of 45 degrees. The lower oblique cut should be under the bud, and the upper one should be made straight far from the bud.

The material should have at least 2 internodes. The upper leaves are shortened by half, and the lower ones are removed. The cuttings are buried 1 centimeter into the soil; it should consist of sand and earth or sand alone. To create a greenhouse effect, it is covered with a glass or plastic container. The cutting should not be in direct sunlight, but should be well lit. It is watered periodically.

By layering

In the spring, you need to make a cut in the stem above the bud so that the depth and width are 10-15 centimeters. Then a layer of humus is poured into the groove and covered with soil. In this case, the escape must be securely fixed in two or three places. The main thing is that its upper part remains open. The cuttings are regularly irrigated, and the following spring they are separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.

Vaccination against rose hips

Budding is performed in late July-early August. Before the procedure, the rosehip is moistened abundantly. After which, a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar.

At this point, the bark is carefully removed and a peephole with a piece of bark and wood taken from a rose cutting is placed in the incision. Then they wrap it with budding material and spud up the rosehip bush, adding soil so that the grafting area is covered by at least 5 centimeters. After half a month, the bandage is released, and in the spring it is completely removed.

Use in landscape design

If the climbing rose is large in size, then it is planted as a single copy in an open area. The rose looks especially impressive in tandem with other tree plantings. Climbing rose bushes planted in a row beautifully ennoble the perimeter of the site and paths. Hedges and vertical gardening are undoubtedly winning options for roses that can climb.