How to properly grow and care for zucchini in open ground

To obtain a good harvest of zucchini, the cultivation and care of which in open ground is not particularly difficult, it is necessary to follow important agrotechnical rules. The vegetable is unpretentious, bears fruit in almost any conditions and with minimal care. In order for the zucchini yield to be higher, you need to apply some knowledge and make a little physical effort.

Preparation and procedure for sowing zucchini seeds

Although growing zucchini is not a difficult process, for good fruiting you will need to create a number of conditions. This culture will actively develop in warm sunny areas that are protected from the winds. It is necessary to provide for the possibility of regular and abundant watering.

Soil preparation

To increase the yield of zucchini, you need to choose the right place to grow them. It is best to prepare the bed in advance in the fall, but this can also be done in the spring, about a week before planting. The culture loves fertile, rich soils with neutral acidity.

It will not grow on poor lands, so when digging, you must add appropriate fertilizers. Their type and quantity depend on the size of the site and the quality of the existing soil.

The following components should be added to sandy soils per 1 m²:

• 2-3 kg of sawdust or compost;
• 2 tbsp. l. ash;
• 1 tbsp. l. phosphorus additives (superphosphate);
• 1 bucket of peat and turf garden soil.

To grow zucchini in open ground with a predominant peat component, you will need to apply the following fertilizers per 1 m²:

• 2 kg of compost or humus;
• 1 bucket of turf soil;
• 2 tbsp. l. wood ash;
• 1 tsp each potassium (potassium sulfate) and phosphate fertilizers.

If the soil is loamy, then you need to add per 1 m²:

• 3 kg of peat;
• 2 kg of sawdust and rotted compost;
• 2 tbsp. l. ash;
• 1 tbsp. l. phosphorus fertilizers.

Chernozems are diluted with the following components (per 1 m²):

• 2 kg of sawdust;
• 2 tbsp. l. wood ash;
• 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate or other nitrogenous fertilizer.

First, all components, except mineral granules, are evenly scattered over the surface of the bed. Then they dig to a depth of at least 25-30 cm, level it and sprinkle it well with mineral fertilizer diluted with warm water (about +40 ° C). To retain moisture and heat, the bed is covered with plastic film until planting.

Crop rotation and compatibility with other crops

Proper agricultural technology for growing zucchini excludes their placement in the same area earlier than after 3-4 years. They will feel good and develop well after many garden plants. This crop cannot be planted where melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, watermelons and other melons grew. Specific bacteria left over from previous relatives can affect squash plantings. The best predecessors for bush zucchini are: potatoes, onions, carrots, cabbage, grains, and green herbs.

Preparing zucchini seeds

Zucchini sowing occurs when the air temperature no longer drops below +10...+12 °C; this time in most regions occurs at the end of May and the beginning of June. In the northern regions, planting dates are often shifted to early July. To improve germination and speed up the harvest time, it is necessary to prepare the seed material in advance in a special way.

The seed preparation technology consists of the following manipulations:

• the seeds are carefully sorted, discarding empty and damaged ones;
• soak for several minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, discard any floating specimens;
• the seeds that have settled to the bottom of the container are removed and re-soaked in a solution of any growth stimulant (Epin, Zircon and others) for 20-30 minutes;
• then the seeds are filtered, rinsed with lukewarm water and wrapped in a damp cloth to swell for several hours;
• the swollen but not yet germinated seed is placed in the refrigerator for stratification for 2 days (at a temperature of about 0 °C);
• then the bundle is placed in a well-lit, warm place (on a windowsill) for several days, the fabric is periodically moistened;
• When the roots reach a length of approximately 0.5-1 cm, the seeds can be planted.

You should try to plant sprouted seeds as soon as possible; this process cannot be delayed. Since the roots grow quickly, then when planting they can intertwine with each other and break off. A damaged seed will no longer sprout.

The procedure for sowing zucchini in open ground

When the temperature outside is stable and warm, it’s time to plant zucchini. In order to obtain an earlier harvest, it is recommended to grow this crop in seedlings. Sprouted seeds are sown in individual containers (peat pots, plastic cups, etc.) in advance, approximately 2-3 weeks before the expected date of planting in open ground. They are then placed at home on a windowsill or in a greenhouse.

Grown seedlings are planted in the ground on the site when warm weather sets in and covered with agrofibre or film.

Agricultural technology for growing zucchini using the seedless method involves sowing directly into the ground. Wide and shallow holes are made at a distance of at least 0.7-1 m from each other, into each of which you need to add a little wood ash and humus (2-3 tablespoons each), then pour in a light pink weak solution of potassium permanganate to disinfection. Place 2-3 seeds in a hole; after sprouts appear, leave 1 of the strongest ones, and remove the excess ones.

If the threat of frost remains, the crops are covered with film. You can cover each seedling with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle.

Agricultural technology for growing zucchini in open ground

With proper agricultural technology, the number of days from planting to harvesting the first fruit can be reduced and a fresh, healthy harvest can be obtained much earlier. The correct growing technology will provide not only early vegetables, but also greater yields.

Subsequent care for zucchini plantings consists of the following procedures:

• timely and regular watering;
• weeding and thinning of green mass;
• feeding (before budding, during flowering and pollination, during ripening and harvesting of fruits).

Caring for zucchini before flowering

To get more flower ovaries, it is necessary to properly care for zucchini. After emergence and before budding, young plants are fed several times. Use mineral nitrogenous and organic fertilizers. Nitrophoska is used as a nitrogen-containing substance; it is diluted with water (30 g per 10 l). The best organic material for feeding is mullein, which is diluted with hot water in a ratio of 1:10, then allowed to brew for 3-4 hours. After dilution in a ratio of 1:5, the plants are watered with the infusion.

For 1 bush, 1 liter of liquid is enough. The nutritious aqueous composition is poured directly under the root, avoiding the solution getting on the leaves. The best effect can be achieved by alternating different types of fertilizers.

How to feed zucchini during flowering?

To attract insects that pollinate plants during flowering, it is recommended to spray the leaves and flowers with a sweet composition (use a solution of honey or sugar - 1 teaspoon per 1 glass of water).To improve access to the buds, it is recommended to remove several leaves from the center of the bush.

Flowering zucchini is fed with a mixture prepared from 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium nitrate. Up to 1.5 liters of solution is consumed for each plant. You can infuse 60 g of wood ash in 10 liters of water, then add Effecton to the liquid (according to the instructions) and water the bushes with this mixture at the rate of 1 liter per plant.

How to care for zucchini during fruiting?

An important point in the agricultural technology of growing zucchini is feeding during fruiting. For this purpose, the following compositions of mineral complexes are used:

• in 1 bucket of water dilute 2 tbsp. l. universal fertilizer (Agricola vegeta and others) and 2 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, then poured at the root (2 liters per bush);
• dissolve 1 tbsp in 1 bucket of water. l. potassium sulfate, double superphosphate and urea (1 liter per 1 bush).

Feeding zucchini with organic matter (mullein) is carried out according to the same scheme. During the harvest period, the crop needs foliar fertilizers with growth stimulants (2 liters per 10 m²), the bushes are sprayed every 10-12 days.

Watering

Until the fruits begin to ripen, the plants are watered once a week. For 1 bush you need to spend about 2 liters of water. You can combine moisturizing with fertilizing. Water only with a warm solution, because cold water rots the ovary. With the beginning of fruiting, watering is increased to 2-3 times a week. 1 bush will already require from 3 to 5 liters.

But zucchini also do not like excessive dampness; when growing, the foliage should be well ventilated. Therefore, until the leaves close together between the rows, weeds are removed at least three times between the rows. If this procedure is not carried out on time, then it will no longer be possible to do this without traumatizing the leaf plates.Thickened and overgrown plantings are susceptible to various fungal diseases and pest attacks.

Caring for zucchini in open ground: video

The quantity and quality of the zucchini harvest largely depend on compliance with growing technology and knowledge of some important nuances. For example, it is not recommended to loosen the soil under bushes, much less hill them. The root system of this crop is branched and superficial, so it is easily damaged. The plant will suffer from improper agrotechnical manipulations.

Diseases and pests, methods of protection and prevention

Pumpkin crops are quite often affected by various fungal diseases, and are also attacked by insect pests. Caring for zucchini includes a number of preventive measures, including observing crop rotation and timely and thorough removal of all plant debris.

More often zucchini suffers from the following diseases:

1. Powdery mildew. The disease manifests itself as a loose grayish-white coating, which turns brown over time. The leaves curl and dry out, the fruits stop growing and become deformed. The reason is sudden temperature changes and an excess of nitrogen. Spraying with colloidal sulfur or a fungicide solution (Bayleton, Topsin-M and others) helps. If necessary, the procedure is carried out twice with an interval of 2 weeks.
2. Black mold. Symptoms are round or angular yellow-rusty spots, which over time become black-brown, then the leaves crumble and fall off. The fruits stop growing and shrink. The disease cannot be treated; damaged bushes must be destroyed.
3. Bacteriosis. Oily spots form on the leaves, darkening over time. The fruits become glassy, ​​become ulcerated and rot. The provoking factor is warm and humid weather.Treatments with Bordeaux mixture (1%) help.
4. Sclerotinia (white rot). A white fungal coating covers all green parts of the plant, including the ovaries, which first soften and then dry out. The fungus often affects overly thickened plantings, as well as during prolonged wet and cold weather. Affected bushes are immediately removed and burned.
5. Anthracnose. Brownish-yellow rounded spots appear on the leaf blades, which turn into holes when dry. Then the entire green mass is affected, the fruits dry out on the vine. The development of the disease is provoked by humid but hot weather. For control, spraying with Bordeaux mixture (1%) and dusting with finely ground sulfur (20-30 g per 10 m²) are used.

The crop can be oppressed by insect pests:

1. Melon aphid. Damages the entire green above-ground part, which gradually dries out. Spraying with infusion of potato tops, onions, garlic, hot hot peppers, dusting with tobacco dust and treating with a solution of laundry soap (300 g per bucket of water) helps. When a large number of pests appear, insecticides are used (Decis, Karbofos).
2. Whiteflies. Insects leave a sticky, sugary coating on the back of the leaves. Traces of their vital activity become a breeding ground for the development of fungal infections, leading to wilting of foliage. The stains are washed off with plain water, and the soil under the bushes is loosened 2 cm deep. In case of severe damage, after harvesting the fruits, the plants and the soil under them are sprayed with insecticidal preparations (Commander).
3. Slugs. Insects eat flowers, leaves and stems of zucchini, spoil the presentation of the fruit and transmit infections. As a preventative measure, repellent crops (mustard, garlic, lavender) are planted nearby.They set up various traps and collect pests manually. Ground mustard, pepper, crushed eggshells, and pine needles are scattered around the bushes. As a last resort, use copper sulfate or superphosphate.

Harvesting and storing zucchini

Zucchini is harvested as the fruit grows throughout the season. The healthiest and tastiest are considered to be unripe vegetables from 15 to 25 cm in length, while they still have thin skin and delicate small seeds. Harvesting such specimens stimulates the bush to quickly grow other fruits and form more ovaries.

Young zucchini is intended for quick consumption and can be stored in the refrigerator for no more than 2 weeks.

Few people know how to properly harvest. You can’t just pick the fruits, the stem is so damaged and infection can get into the wound. Experts recommend cutting vegetables with a sharp knife. Zucchini that is not quite ripe is cut off at the very base of the stalk; for more ripe ones, a tail of at least 5-7 cm is left.

Vegetables intended for long-term winter storage must be allowed to fully ripen. The degree of ripeness and when it is time to store the zucchini is determined by the thick, hard rind and the corresponding hollow sound when tapped. After cutting, the ripened fruits are left to lie in the garden for 5-7 days so that they warm up well in the sun and the skin hardens even more.

Thick bark will prevent pathogenic bacteria from penetrating the vegetable and will contribute to longer storage. The fruits need to be turned over periodically. To increase shelf life, the ends of the remaining stalks are dipped in molten paraffin.

Store zucchini in a dry cellar or basement with good exhaust ventilation.The fruits are laid out on shelves lined with paper or straw, hung in nets (by the remaining long stalk) from the ceiling or placed in boxes, sprinkling the vegetables with sawdust (they should not touch). If it is not possible to keep the harvest in a special room, then you can store the zucchini in the apartment. To do this, they are placed in a dry and dark place (under the bed, closet, closet, near the balcony door).

Some fruits can be stored in the refrigerator. Wrapped in pre-perforated polyethylene, they are placed in the vegetable compartment. Properly grown and well-ripened zucchini can last until the fresh harvest. But in the spring, the seeds inside the fruit begin to sprout roots, and the pulp acquires a bitter taste.