Daffodils are deservedly popular among floriculture enthusiasts, especially Irene Copeland. This variety is highly decorative and relatively easy to care for. Without replanting, it can bloom for 3-5 years. To grow this amazing flower in your garden plot, you need to familiarize yourself with the peculiarities of planting work, the strengths and weaknesses of the variety.
Description and characteristics of the variety
Irene Copyland is a prominent representative of the Terry group of the Amaryllis family. This is a perennial plant with luxurious double flowers, which reach 8-10 centimeters in diameter, and grows to a height of only 45 centimeters. Narcissus blooms in white-lemon color in late April-early May. Due to the heavy flowers, fragile peduncles are often in a tilted state.
Also eye-catching is the Irene Copeland daffodil with its bright green foliage. The two-color plant is distinguished by a weakly defined crown, the arrangement of the petals is layered. Due to its original structure, this variety of daffodil is actively used in landscape design.
History of selection
The country of origin of this multi-layered daffodil is the Netherlands. The perennial has a sufficient level of frost resistance (zone 3-4); it can easily winter in the ground. The optimal climate for growing daffodils is moderate.
Growing
In order for Narcissus Irene Copeland to grow and develop normally, you need to know when to plant the bulbs in the ground and what conditions to provide them with. Despite the relative unpretentiousness of this delicate and bright flower, certain rules must still be followed, then both the leaves and flowers will have a rich color.
Landing dates
It is best to carry out planting work in early autumn - starting in September and ending in October. The main thing is to do it before the cold weather arrives; there should be at least 50-60 days before the onset of frost.
If for some reason it was not possible to plant the daffodil in open ground in the fall, this can be done in the spring.
But there are some subtleties here - the bulbs must be kept in cold conditions for 2-3 weeks.A refrigerator is suitable for these purposes, but not a freezer, since at low temperatures the tubers may die. If you do not follow these measures, then it is unlikely that you will be able to grow a daffodil that is resistant to adverse environmental factors. In addition, this will not have the best effect on flowering. It is recommended to carry out planting work in mid-April, after the snow cover has melted.
Important! If planting worksIf you carry it out later than the specified period, the daffodil will noticeably lag behind in development and the flowering phase will begin only in the third year after planting in the ground.
Soil preparation
When choosing a site for planting daffodils, Irene Copeland should give preference to sunny meadows or areas with light partial shade. But it is not worth identifying perennials near tall plantings, large structures, and buildings. The soil for planting daffodils must be sufficiently fertile, otherwise they will lose their vitality and will not delight with flowering.
The area must be protected from drafts. Light, sandy soils are not suitable for daffodils, given that they do not retain heat at all and the bulbs often freeze. The acidity level of the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. The ideal solution is soil with good air and water permeability. Preparatory work should be done in the summer: the soil is dug up and fertilized with compost, humus, but not manure.
Selection and storage of planting material
The bulbs should be carefully examined to identify signs of damage and traces of disease. They are stored in cool, ventilated areas where the air temperature is +17 degrees.
Planting scheme
It is enough to bury the planting material into the ground by 10-20 centimeters.In order not to thicken the flowerbed, you need to maintain a distance between plants of 5-15 centimeters. It all depends on the size of the bulbs. The landing algorithm involves performing the following actions:
- In the prepared area, form planting nests 10-20 centimeters deep.
- Add a handful of sand and 2 tablespoons of wood ash.
- Moisten the soil.
- Place the bulbs.
- Cover with fertile soil, but leaving the tops exposed.
- Mulch the plantings with nut shells and grass clippings.
Thanks to a layer of mulch, it is possible to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture and the appearance of weeds. In addition, this technique allows you not to loosen the soil after each irrigation.
Rules of care
Although daffodils have proven themselves to be undemanding perennials, they still need care.
Loosening and weeding
To avoid oxygen starvation of the roots, the soil should be loosened after watering. But, if there is a layer of mulch, then this greatly simplifies the care of delicate flowers. It is also recommended to periodically weed the plantings so that weeds do not clog them.
Watering
For daffodils, both high and low levels of humidity in the soil are detrimental. The soil should not be allowed to dry out, otherwise the daffodils will begin to get sick and wither. Irrigation activities should be carried out regularly, spending up to 20 liters of water per 1 square meter of soil.
Protection from pests and diseases
With serious violations in agricultural technology, daffodils are affected by fungal infections. Most often, they suffer from fusarium, gray rot, and penicillium rot.To prevent the occurrence of such ailments, it is necessary to soak the bulbs for 30 minutes in Maxim’s solution before planting. As soon as the sprouts are visible, they are treated with 1.5% Bordeaux mixture.
If daffodils are affected by viral diseases, in particular yellow and white stripes, mosaic virus, ring spot, then you should not count on successful treatment. Here, before planting, you need to select only healthy material that has been disinfected.
It is not recommended to use small specimens; they are more susceptible to illness.
To protect daffodils from viral diseases, it is necessary to destroy harmful insects: beetles, mites, whiteflies, cicadas, nematodes. Timely identification of the disease and destruction of the diseased bush will prevent the disease from spreading. A drug such as Fufanon (2%) works effectively against daffodil flies. But against nematodes on daffodils it is better to use Nemaphos and Carbation.
At the budding stage, Fitoverm is used at the rate of 20 milligrams of the product per 10 liters of water.
Top dressing
The first feeding with a mineral complex is carried out after the emergence of seedlings, where 30 grams of the drug are consumed per 1 square meter. The second procedure is performed at the stage of bud formation (at the end of May), using 20 grams of product per 1 square meter. At the end of the flowering phase, daffodils are enriched with a composition of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers in proportions of 1:2. For 1 square meter take 50-60 grams of the mixture. After fertilizing, the soil is moistened and loosened.
Reproduction
Daffodils are propagated by bulbs, and by children - vegetatively. If you use seeds, then the grown plants will not have the varietal characteristics characteristic of the mother plant.
Application in landscape design
Perennials are used both to create flower arrangements and as a separate decoration for the garden. Daffodils in the foreground look impressive. Plants can be planted in rows or in bright sunspots. It is very good if you use these unique flowers - daffodils - to decorate your rock garden.
Reviews
Marina, 54 years old, Voronezh
Irene Copeland purchased daffodils for her flower garden. Impressions from them are mostly positive, they are unpretentious and bloom very beautifully.
Valentina, 45 years old, Moscow
This perennial really has a presentable appearance. It is not picky about growing conditions, which particularly pleased me.
Konstantin, 35 years old, Saratov
Last year I started gardening and planted Irene Copeland daffodils in my flowerbed. The plants grow well in partial shade, have large flowers and a pleasant fragrance. I was satisfied.
