Description of varieties of climbing roses for growing in Siberia, care and propagation methods

In regions with a mild climate, gardens and summer cottages are decorated with flower beds, alpine hills, on which lilies, primroses, and phlox are planted. Climbing roses wrap around arches and arbors. Living hedges are made from climbing plants. For growing climbing roses in Siberia, only varieties bred specifically for the unfavorable conditions of the northern territories are suitable. Heat-loving flowers are afraid of cold winds and cannot tolerate severe frosts.

Features of growing roses in Siberia

Ornamental crops in harsh climates are usually not planted in open ground, but breeders are trying to create varieties of flowers that can be used to decorate flower beds in courtyards and parks in regions where the temperature drops below -30, but for the winter roses, peonies lilies are carefully covered, and heat-loving bulbs plants are dug up.

The best varieties for cold climates

Most of Russia is not suitable for planting ornamental crops. Accepted in Siberia, climbing roses grown in local nurseries can withstand harsh winters. Cold-resistant varieties are bred by grafting cuttings onto unpretentious rose hips, which are adapted to 40-degree frost.

Golden Celebration

A rose with flowers about 16 cm in diameter appeared thanks to the work of breeder David Austin. The Golden Celebration variety looks great in the heat and is not afraid of the cold. A compact bush up to 0.8 m high slowly opens buds that do not fall off for a long time after abundant flowering. The large corollas of roses are colored amber, creamy, yellow, like the sun, and emit the scent of lemon. A plant with glossy leaves looks harmonious alone, is suitable for planting in groups, loves the sun, and does not tolerate acidic soil.

William Sheakespeare 2000

He himself really liked another creation of David Austin. A rose with medium-sized double crimson flowers is distinguished by the fact that it changes color to a lilac or lilac hue. The climbing shoots of bushes, growing more than a meter in height, are covered with matte green leaves.The variety does not suffer from cold if it is insulated for the winter and is immune to fungal infection. The aroma of the flower has violet notes.

New Dawn

The rose, bred back in the 30s of the last century, is still grown with pleasure in gardens. The thin lashes of the bush branch well and, when placed on a support, stretch up to 5 m in height. Terry pink flowers of small diameter appear completely white in the sun, but darken on cloudy cold days. The buds bloom until late autumn.

The variety is accepted in Siberia, is practically not affected by diseases, is grown as a fountain-shaped bush, and when planted next to a tree, the lashes hang from the branches in an original way. Graceful flowers fill the air with a spicy aroma with fruity notes.

Westerland

The Westerland rose was bred in the late 60s by the breeder Cordes, combining scrubs of park varieties. The plant, which turned out to be winter-hardy, beautifully entwines arbors and arches and is used as the main element of flower beds. The Westerland rose has oblong, glossy leaves. During flowering, the branches are dotted with buds, which have a golden center, and the petals, depending on the weather, change their yellow color to an apricot, pink or orange hue. In the garden, when the bush blooms, the air is filled with a bright aroma.

Rosarium Uetersen

The climbing variety, bred in Germany in 1977, is planted to create hedges and decorate arbors and arches. At first, the plant was not successful, but with the advent of the vintage style, climbing roses began to be actively used to decorate courtyards and garden plots. The flowers, consisting of hundreds of petals, are collected in clusters, the diameter of one corolla reaches 11–12 cm. The dark red buds brighten in the sun. The plant does not freeze at -30, but does not take root in places where water comes to the surface.The rose's lashes stretch up to 3 m, the width of the bush is one and a half meters.

The nuances of growing in open ground

For a long time, Siberian flower growers did not dare to cultivate heat-loving crops in the garden, but with the advent of frost-resistant varieties, they began to try to grow roses in open areas. Many people succeeded.

Landing dates

In order for the flower to grow in the climate of Siberia, which is characterized by a late spring and frosts starting early, a climbing rose must be planted when the ground warms up well and the dandelions bloom. And this usually occurs no earlier than the end of May.

In the fall, it is recommended to send mature bushes to an open area, which have time to take root before the arrival of winter weather.

Selecting a location

It is also possible to create comfortable conditions for roses in climates where summers are short and the sun does not rise as high above the horizon as in the south. When choosing a place for a plant, you need to consider some nuances:

1. Roses should not be planted in lowlands where the soil freezes deeply in winter.
2. It is better to place the crop not in the sun, but in light partial shade.
3. The area for the flower should be protected from cold winds blowing from the north or east.

Climbing varieties decorate buildings, but to prevent the plant from becoming frozen and dying, it is planted at least a meter from the wall. The rose does not tolerate stagnant water, looks harmonious, and feels good next to coniferous trees and shrubs, irises and clematis.

Preparation of planting material

You need to buy roses from a local nursery, which sells varieties adapted to natural conditions. You need to choose a seedling for growing that has strong roots and shoots and a green stem.In order for the rose to quickly settle into a new place and recover from the resulting stress:

1. Potassium permanganate powder is poured into the water, and the roots are placed in the prepared solution for a day.
2. Soak the flower in the growth stimulator “Zircon”.
3. The shoots of the plant are shortened by 20 cm, damaged branches and dried areas of roots are removed.

Shortly before planting, the sections are wiped with Fundazol. Roses that are sold in a package with a lump of soil are placed in the soil along with a container that is made of a material that dissolves in the soil.

Landing rules

The area for the climbing rose is dug up, leveled, and the weeds are removed along with the roots. The acidic soil is diluted with ash or dolomite flour, and a hole is made for the seedling up to 0.8 m deep:

1. A thick layer of fine crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the bottom, and river sand is added on top.
2. Combine humus, peat and garden soil.
3. The hole is filled to a third with the nutrient mixture, 2-3 tablespoons of superphosphate and one potassium salt are added.
4. The rose is placed vertically in a hole, the roots are straightened and buried 10 centimeters below the surface.
5. Supporting the bush with your hand, fill the space.

The seedling is irrigated with warm water. The soil is compacted around the plants and a small rampart is built. For the first 2 weeks, the young rose is protected from the sun's rays.

Subtleties of plant care

In order for the seedling to begin to develop quickly, sprout shoots and become stronger by winter, it must be carefully looked after.

Watering

The rose is irrigated with settled water twice a week; in hot weather this is done more often. Before the onset of cold weather, it is enough to moisten the soil under the seedling once every 7 days.

Fertilizer application

Mullein, which contains a lot of nitrogen, is most often used to feed young plants. One part of the organic product is mixed with 10 tsp.water, infuse and fertilize the rose 20 days after planting. For the second feeding of the plant, you can add bird droppings, which are taken in a concentration 2 times less than manure.

Trimming and shaping

Before the onset of frost, they get rid of weak and damaged shoots, tear off buds and leaves. If this is not done, the rose will not survive the winter. In spring or autumn, they begin formative pruning. If flowers appear on new shoots of the plant, the old ones are shortened. When buds form on last year's vines, only the top is removed.

Preparing for winter

Even roses bred for Siberia require shelter during the cold season. To do this, the branches of the plant are removed from the trellis and covered with pine needles on top, wrapped in material that does not allow moisture to pass through. Some gardeners build a frame for the winter and wrap it with burlap, tarpaulin or roofing felt. Dry leaves or spruce branches are placed in the space and covered with polyethylene.

Methods of protection against diseases and pests

Lack of sunny color, deficiency or excess of moisture, lack of nutritional components provoke weakening of climbing roses. Plants are affected:

• peronosporosis;
• powdery mildew;
• black spotting.

To prevent diseases in wet weather, it is recommended to spray the bushes every week with Fundazol. To prevent infection by fungi, once every 10 or 14 days, rose leaves and shoots are treated with Zircon and Fitosporin fungicides.

Microscopic aphids sprinkle a flowering plant. If spraying with a solution of tobacco dust and laundry soap does not help to cope with insects, the home remedy is replaced with chemical insecticides in the form of “Aktara”, “Karbofos”, “Aktellika”.

Reproduction of roses in Siberia

Climbing varieties are not propagated using seeds. Shoots often do not appear at all, and sometimes rose hips grow, which bloom after 3 or 4 years. The crop is propagated by grafting, but only experienced gardeners can do such a complex method.

The easiest way to propagate a rose is by cuttings; they are harvested in the summer; the woody shoots are cut off in the fall and kept in a cool place, folded in a plastic bag until spring.

On the green cuttings of the plant, which are shortened to 15 cm, up to 3 buds are left, and all the leaves located below are torn off. The substrate is prepared from garden and turf soil, adding sand to the mixture. The soil is scalded with boiling water or heated in the oven.

On lignified shoots of plants 25 or 30 cm long, make a straight cut at the top, at an angle at the bottom, leaving up to 5-6 internodes and a couple of leaves. Rose cuttings are dipped into a growth stimulator for a day, then stuck into the substrate to a depth of about 50 mm at an angle. The soil is moistened and the shoots are insulated with film.

If the cuttings of the plant are regularly sprayed with water from a spray bottle and ventilated, after 10 days roots will appear and the covering is removed.

To propagate roses by layering:

1. For an annual plant, choose a lower branch no shorter than a meter in length.
2. Small deep cuts are made over the kidneys.
3. A groove is dug around the bush, moistened, and humus is poured onto the bottom.
4. A rose shoot is placed in a trench, secured with wire, and covered with earth.
5. Pegs are driven in near the plant, a film is stretched, and a greenhouse is created.

Cuttings that have taken root are transplanted to an open area and fed. To give the rose a decorative appearance, when the bush grows, the branches are shortened.