The ripening time of grape vines and what to treat to speed up the process

Many beginning winegrowers do not fully possess the skills of cultivating varieties and need advice or tips. It’s not easy to understand the intricacies of the matter, to understand all the nuances. Prepared thematic material will help you master the art of creating favorable conditions for ripening vines on grapes.

We determine the ripening period of fruits by variety

The main rule of a winegrower is that each variety has its own specific ripening period. Therefore, types of shrubs are classified according to several main characteristics, on which care, its volume and timing will depend:

1. Productivity. There are high-yielding, low-yielding and record-breaking varieties.
2. Weather resistant. The grapes originally grew in the south; most species continue to be cultivated in warm climates, while there are hybrids artificially adapted for the northern regions.
3. Susceptibility to diseases and pests. Most varieties vary from extreme insensitivity to complete delicacy.
4. Purpose. Table, technical and universal grapes (this also includes decorative grapes).

The list can be continued, adding methods of breeding, taste of the berry, portability of transportation and others. With regard to the timing of ripening, the month in which the clusters ripen, the berries are divided into ultra-early, ultra-early, early-mid, medium, mid-late, late and very late.

Each type has its own undeniable advantages; by default, the middle and late varieties are sweeter than the early ones. But sometimes breeders develop hybrids that combine excellent taste and rapid ripening.

The grape variety is “tied” to the region in which it will be grown: late grapes will never be able to ripen in the conditions of the short Siberian summer, and moreover, they will not survive the test of cold in winter.

Of the early species, the most popular are Aleshenkin, Arcadia, White Miracle, Zilga, Moscow White, Victoria, Early Vavilova, Kesha, Decorative and Muscat Chasselas. Among the average ones are Kishmish, Gift to Zaporozhye, Nadezhda AZOS. Late varieties - Moldova, Dekabrsky, Karaburnu, Taifi and others.

An experienced winegrower varies the varieties on his plot, alternating them in order to harvest berries of different shapes, tastes, colors, and purposes throughout the warm season. Therefore, residents of the southern regions of the Russian Federation, with long summers and mild winters, are in a more advantageous position.

Very early

This category includes varieties that ripen in 105 days. The countdown begins from the moment the central buds bloom; the full period depends on air temperature, weather, and humidity. In hot, dry climates, berries ripen worse than in relatively cold ones. The main advantage of such species is that they are guaranteed to ripen and produce a harvest. And most problems (pests and diseases) can be safely avoided.

Very early

They ripen in the period from 105 to 115 days, suitable for the Middle Zone. Such varieties will be in demand, as they are among the first to bear fruit, bringing tasty, aromatic berries to the table.

Early

Early grapes have a growing season of 115-120 days, which is enough for the clusters to be adorned with sweet, ripe fruits at the end of July. The range in color, berry size, bouquet is great - there is plenty to choose from.

Early-middle

Intermediate category, which includes species with growing seasons from 120 to 125 days.This includes Aleshenkin, Bogatyrsky, Karamol, Muscat of Bucharest and others.

Average

These include varieties that ripen in a time period of 125 to 135 days. These are Armenia, Aelita, Beige, Voskhod, Primorsky - more than 5 dozen names in total.

Late

A number of diverse, different types of grape berries are closed by late varieties. They ripen the slowest - 135 days or longer. There are many tasty, sweet, unique varieties in this category, but they are most susceptible to classic grape diseases and require careful care.

These include Agadai, Dniester pink, Isabella, Tair, Jubilee of Moldova. They can grow in the southern regions, but in others they do not have enough time to ripen.

Factors influencing berry ripening

This is undoubtedly the sun, air and water. Everything should be in moderation, this mostly applies to watering and wind. Grapes are sensitive to waterlogging of the soil, the roots will simply rot, and constant drafts will cause the vine to have a “runny nose” - the buds will develop poorly. Without knowledge of these subtleties, the harvest cannot be harvested.

Correct placement of vineyard rows

During large-scale planting, the bushes are placed in such a way that they do not interfere with each other’s development or shade the sun. Different varieties have different requirements as they can grow upwards, sideways, or both directions at the same time. There are no universal solutions; you will have to look for tips in relation to the selected species in order to provide the plant with optimal development conditions.

Sometimes mint is planted near the grapes - its tart smell repels aphids. It is allowed to place bushes near the walls of buildings to protect the seedlings from drafts.

How to speed up the ripening process of grapes

This section is not for those who like dangerous experiments and all sorts of “improvements.” It will not be possible to turn a late variety into an ultra-early one, otherwise breeders would not have spent decades working hard to create adapted hybrids by crossing different varieties.

You can influence the growth process of the vine if you choose the planting site wisely, feed the bush, prune it, and stop attempts by pests to settle on the grapes. Mulching, covering, ringing, soil replacement (partial or complete), and pinching are also used.

Spring procedures

In spring, the juices move in the vine, the buds wake up from winter hibernation. It is very important to “push” the plant to further development, to help it gain strength and begin to actively develop. In the southern regions they begin in late February-early March, in the Middle Zone - in April. Before sap flow, pruning is performed; this applies to varieties that are not covered for the winter.

In more severe regions, in April they begin to open the vine, removing it from under a layer of sawdust, peat and pine needles. Be sure to remove dead, weak and old areas. For grapes older than 2 years of age, pruning is carried out radically, removing more than half of the buds and sprouts.

There should be several shoots from last year with healthy ovaries. As soon as it is 10 degrees “overboard” for a week, the vine will begin to “cry” and actively secrete juice. This will last from 14 to 21 days. When soil is frozen, sap flow is extended over time and growth processes slow down.

The successful completion of the “crying” is indicated by the pecking of buds and the development of the first shoots. If you have experience in pruning, during this period the “extra” buds are mercilessly removed so that the vine can feed the remaining ones.In the second half of April, the garter begins: the sleeves are oriented at an angle, the shoots are oriented vertically.

During the same period, young bushes are planted. In May, the vine is thinned out again, breaking off double and triple shoots (growing from one bud) so that only one remains. The procedure is repeated sequentially when the sprouts reach a length of 15-20, and then 35-40 centimeters.

Throughout May, they form the crown, removing the stepsons and all the shoots coming from the rhizome: this way the most viable, strong of them will remain, which will produce strong, ripe clusters. In addition to the above, activities are carried out to feed the vines with mineral complexes. The period suitable for this is the first half of April.

Organics are suitable for future plantings of young grapes. The spring season is favorable for disease prevention: bushes are sprayed with chemical solutions.

Soil mixing

Grapes do not like heavy, clay soils. Therefore, when planting, they practice mixing soil with humus, sand, compost, depending on the condition of the site. Drainage must be placed at the bottom - stones, crushed stone, broken bricks. The resulting “pie” from the earthen mixture should be air- and moisture-permeable - this way the vine will grow better.

Trimming

Includes “selection” of shoots, bunches or individual berries with signs of immaturity, diseases, and defects. Allows you to increase the chances of survival of those remaining and accelerate their maturation.

Vine ringing

The ringing method is used to accelerate the ripening of berries and stimulate sap flow. It consists of making a transverse cut along the vine in a certain place with a sharp knife so that a narrow strip of bark is obtained. Usually carried out in early spring, before the bush finally wakes up.

Pinching stepsons

To avoid the growth of “extra” branches and to rejuvenate the vine, pinching the stepsons is used. The procedure is carried out immediately after their appearance, removing the selected shoots. Well suited for medium-fast grape varieties.

Breaking off shoots

We are not talking about total destruction, but about the removal of non-viable, weak shoots. Otherwise, they will draw juices from the vine and interfere with the development of other parts of the plant. For later species it is an integral stage of processing.

Summer treatments

In July, and especially in August, they continue to actively care for the grapes, regulating watering, using pinching, fertilizing and chemical treatment against pests and diseases.

Timely reduction of watering of grapes

The amount of liquid is reduced after the first ten days of July: this can significantly speed up the ripening of berries and bring the harvest closer. If this is not done, the plant will form ovaries and fruits slowly, slowly, guided by its internal calendar.

Stepsoning

When the vine has sprouted fresh shoots that have grown and developed into shoots, they begin thinning. Remove all shoots that are not involved in the development of the crop. This is done between July and August.

Summer treatment

Summer is a time of active reproduction of pests and the appearance of diseases on leaves and berries. Treatment includes dressing the grapes at the first signs of gray rot, oidium, mildew, and insects. Both chemical and folk remedies are used: soda, potassium permanganate.

Foliar feeding to accelerate crown ripeness

Many experienced winegrowers successfully use feeding the root zone and adding fertilizers under the stem.Not everyone knows that spraying at the end of summer (in August) with a weak infusion of wood ash or a solution of potassium monophosphate acts as a stimulant on ripening bunches.

Chasing shoots

To stop the growth of greenery and let the juices flow into the development of berries, chasing of shoots is used: for this, the tops of them are cut off (approximately at the level of the 15th leaf).

Removing excess crowns

In abundantly fruiting grape varieties, as a necessary measure, the removal of “extra” bunches - shading, diseased, undeveloped - is used. If this is not done, the mother plant will try to feed all the grains and grow every berry, which, unfortunately, is not always possible.

Autumn procedures

Beginning gardeners often ask what to do in the fall, besides harvesting. On the last warm days, the vineyard is mulched, freed from heavy grapes, dead branches are removed and prepared for winter. During the same period, for late varieties, growth stimulants are used to accelerate the ripening of berries.

Partial removal of berries

The measure is forced, but necessary. Especially for the Middle Zone, where the weather is not warm. On individual shoots, the top clusters are removed so that the most powerful and heaviest ones remain. Next, the berries are carefully examined on the brooms and weak, unformed ones are cut out.

Mulching and insulation

It is very important for grapes to maintain a constant temperature balance in the root zone. Therefore, it is mulched with peat, humus, leaves, covered with a thick film (possibly black), or burlap.

How to fertilize to speed up the ripeness of crops

For quick but uniform ripening of berries, there is nothing better than sun, warm weather and moderate watering.If it is not possible to ensure the presence of all these components in full, mineral stimulants are used. They will come in handy to get a harvest faster in the harsh climate of Siberia or the Urals.

Application of phosphorus

Phosphorus is very important for the nutrition of the vine; it is one of the main components that ensure its growth. The balance of the mineral in the soil is the key to flowering and normal ripening of berries in the clusters. A common mineral complex containing phosphorus is superphosphate. It is used in the fall by watering the bush with an aqueous solution of fertilizer.

Ammonium molybdate

Ammonium molybdate solution is used for foliar and root feeding. It stimulates the growth and formation of ovaries, since it carries in bound form one of the main components that is extremely important for grapes - nitrogen.

How to determine if the berries are ripe

To understand that the berries are ripe, it is not at all necessary to accurately calculate the growing season. It is enough to do a tasting: ripe grapes should have a rich, sweet taste, without any admixture of parasitic components. Unripe berries can be bitter, tart, and overly sour.

The degree of ripeness can be easily recognized by color: for fully formed fruits, it fully corresponds to the description in the catalog or directory of grape varieties.