Description of floribunda rose varieties, planting and care in open ground for beginners

In addition to edible crops, gardeners grow flowers in their plots, because well-groomed plants with colorful buds are the best decoration of the garden. Recently, summer residents have been giving preference to roses, namely the floribunda variety. This species is characterized by frost resistance, strong immunity to most diseases, and also unpretentiousness, thanks to which even novice gardeners can grow flowers.

History of appearance

The floribunda variety appeared thanks to the work of experienced breeders. At the beginning of the last century, due to the fashion for growing roses, botanists sought to create the most unusual hybrids by crossing different species. The German breeder Peter Lambert, known for his experiments, was the first to cross the tea and polyanthus roses. The resulting hybrid inherited the best qualities of its “parents”. The tea variety gave the shape and size of the bud, and the polyanthus variety gave it strong immunity to disease and the type of inflorescences.

The crossing experiment was continued by the Danish scientist Sven Poulsen, crossing hybrid roses with other varieties, developing new subspecies of floribunda. More than 60 species were created by US breeder Evgeniy Berner. As a result, in 1952, floribunda became a separate group of pink flowers.

Description and characteristics of the rose

The floribunda group is the largest group of roses, whose flowers differ from other varieties in their bright, rich color. The subspecies differ in appearance from each other:

• flower type: single, double or semi-double;
• bud shape: flat or goblet;
• inflorescences: many-flowered or few-flowered;
• more than a hundred colors: plain, two-color, striped.
• bud size: 4-12 centimeters;
• flowering: periodically or continuously;
• according to the height of the bush: border (40 centimeters), medium (60-80 centimeters), high (more than 1 meter).

Despite the differences, floribundas have similar characteristics:

• leaves are medium-sized, shiny, deep green;
• the spines are straight;
• Most of it doesn't smell.

Varietal diversity of floribunda

As already mentioned, floribunda is the most extensive pink group, and it includes more than a hundred subspecies. However, the following species are most often found in garden plots:

1. Niccolo Paganini. Height – 80 centimeters. The flowers are velvety, non-fading dark burgundy in color. There are 5-12 buds on the brush. Resistant to frost, heat and drought.
2. Iceberg. Height – up to 80 centimeters. The flowers are double, spherical, white, purple or pink. Flowering is abundant. Resistant to frost, powdery mildew, black spot. Thins out the delicate aroma.
3. Purple Tiger. Height – 1 meter. Flowers are voluminous, semi-double. The color is a mixture of white, lilac, pink and purple stripes. Weak resistance to cold.
4. Blue Baju. Height – up to 70 centimeters. The flowers are double, large, pale blue. The core is yellow. Does not like temperature changes and high humidity.
5. Prince of Monaco. Height – up to 1 meter. Flowers are double. The color is cream, with raspberry edging. Inflorescence – 5-7 flowers. Continuous flowering. Resistant to cold and disease.

Advantages and disadvantages

Why do gardeners prefer the floribunda variety? To do this, you should look at the advantages of the variety:

• lush flowers;
• long flowering;
• unpretentiousness;
• most are resistant to frost and disease;
• compactness of the bush;
• a large number of shoots;
• propagation by cuttings;
• huge selection of shades.

Despite their advantages, roses still have several disadvantages:

• most are odorless;
• demands on light.

Features of growing a flower

In order for a bright, beautiful flower to begin to bloom on the site, gardeners should follow simple but mandatory steps.

Landing dates

Container seedlings are planted throughout the summer. With an open root system - in early spring or autumn. Seedlings with closed roots - in May-June. In the southern regions, planting can be carried out in September-October, when the plants have time to take root before the onset of frost.However, in the central and northern regions it is better to cancel autumn planting.

Selection of planting material

Bare-rooted seedlings should be purchased in early spring or fall. The plant must be freshly dug, preferably immediately before purchase. A seedling with dormant buds and no signs of growth and 2-3 strong shoots should not have external damage.

The container option is convenient, but you should make sure that the plant was grown in the container in which it is sold, and not transplanted there. There should be no external damage.

Seedlings with closed roots should also be free of external damage. This option vaccinates much faster and has stronger immunity.

It is better to buy from nurseries of well-known manufacturers with a quality guarantee. Packaged seedlings or seedlings in the markets are several times cheaper, but they are only suitable for greenhouse conditions.

Soil preparation

The first step is to clear the area of ​​debris, weeds and dig up. Immediately before planting, dig a hole 50 centimeters wide and 30 centimeters deep, since roses do not like cramped conditions. After this, prepare a fertilizer mixture - a bucket of sand, peat, humus, half a bucket of fine clay, bone meal and superphosphate fertilizers. Mix and pour into the planting hole.

Disembarkation

After the planting site is ready, you should move on to the seedlings. Shorten the roots to 25 centimeters and, placing them in the hole, carefully and carefully distribute them. Fill the root collar with soil 3-5 centimeters, compact it so that there are no voids, and water generously along the edges of the hole. After absorbing moisture, mulch the soil with sawdust or cut grass.At first, protect from direct sunlight.

Roses should not be planted closer than 50 centimeters to each other. This variety loves freedom, otherwise the number of flowers will decrease.

Subtleties of plant care

If the landing is done correctly, the result will not be long in coming. However, you should not forget about care so that the plant does not die or get sick.

Temperature

Most floribunda subspecies are unpretentious to changes in weather. They are resistant to drought, heat and frost. However, at especially low temperatures, you should not forget about covering the flowers. The rose should also be protected from strong winds, especially on the northern or northwestern side of the site.

Illumination

Floribunda loves light, so it should be planted on the south or southwest side. Otherwise, being in constant shade, the plant will begin to wither and get sick. However, light shade is still needed during midday sun. Otherwise, the brightness of the flowers will decrease and the flowering time will be shortened.

Top dressing

Mandatory procedure for floribunda. If sufficient fertilizer was added at planting, fertilizing will not be required the first year. In subsequent years, the flower must be fed 5-7 times per season. It is advisable to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers. It is better to mix the latter with watering, and add organic matter carefully so as not to harm sensitive roots.

It is enough to scatter them around the bush, and during watering they will gradually seep into the plant.

Watering

Roses need regular watering, especially young seedlings. Adult plants need to be watered once a week, preferably in the evening. One plant requires a bucket of settled warm water.In addition, floribunda loves periodic spraying of leaves. It must be done with warm water in the evening or early in the morning.

Important! When watering, you should not get it on the buds or flowers, and you should also avoid stagnant water.

Trimming

Thanks to spring, summer and autumn pruning, the floribunda rose bush becomes stronger, growing a large number of buds. The appearance is improved, the flowering time is extended, and the development of certain diseases is prevented.

The first pruning should be done in the spring, when the leaves bloom. It is necessary to prune all weak, diseased or damaged shoots, as well as those whose age is more than 2 years. The length of the shoots should not exceed 20 centimeters, and there should be no more than 4 strong buds on each shoot. If all the shoots are weak, they should be shortened further, leaving 1-2 buds on the branch.

Shelter for the winter

Preparing for winter is a necessary action for rose bushes. All leaves and inflorescences should be trimmed, branches should be shortened to 40 centimeters. Burn all remains and spray the bush with 1% Bordeaux mixture. Cover the bush with earth for ≈30 centimeters. Make a cover on top of fallen leaves, spruce branches and non-woven material.

Protection from diseases and pests

Despite the good resistance of roses to diseases, regular preventive maintenance should not be neglected. To do this, just spray the bushes with onion, garlic or tobacco decoction. You can also resort to chemicals by first watering the bushes abundantly and allowing the moisture to dry.

Breeding methods

The most convenient method of propagation is by cuttings. To do this, use woody shoots, cutting them at an angle of 45 ° and half a centimeter above the bud. The length of the cutting is 8 centimeters.For planting, you will need a hole 15 centimeters wide, and the distance between the holes is at least 30. Place the cutting halfway into the ground and cover it with film.

During the rooting period, seedlings must be watered, allowed to breathe and loosen the soil. For the winter it is necessary to wrap it up. The first buds must be cut off. You can replant after at least 3 years.

Use in landscape design

Rose bushes on the site are considered a decoration in themselves, but many want to emphasize the presence of the royal flower and make it the center of the garden. To do this, floribundas are planted in flower beds, hedges are made or fences are entwined, and paths to the house are decorated with low varieties.