Grafting apricots is the only way to get a full-fledged tree that retains the maternal characteristics of the variety, begins to bear fruit early, and is not afraid of difficult climatic conditions. Beginning gardeners are reluctant to resort to this method, preferring to purchase ready-made seedlings, which often die. Do not rush to conclusions and abandon the process - knowing how to graft apricots, it is easy to increase the number of these trees in the garden.
Why vaccinate
Not always apricot grown from the seed retains maternal characteristics. It often happens that fruiting occurs after 5-7 years. The fruits do not indulge in size and taste - they are unsweetened and small. It is also difficult to guess which variety is preferable for the region - often trees die already at the first frost in the middle zone.
Grafting allows you to get a full-fledged tree that has adopted the characteristics of the apricot variety from which the cuttings were taken. Another advantage of a grafted plant is its endurance, resistance to cold and heat.
Preparation for the procedure
For beginning gardeners, it is recommended to prepare for grafting in advance - look for a suitable variety, stock up on cuttings. Prepare scion from healthy varietal apricots that have already had a good harvest. Store cuttings in a cool place.
Gardeners have different opinions about when it is best to stock up on cuttings. The scion is often cut out in the fall, but winter shoots also take root.
The main thing is to prepare cuttings on a warm day.
Optimal timing
Every experienced gardener has preferences regarding the timing of vaccination. Some plant cuttings in the spring, others like the autumn procedure. Each period is good, has advantages and disadvantages, so it is better to check for yourself when engraftment occurs best.
The summer procedure is also carried out frequently, although the requirements of agricultural technology must be observed here. July is considered the most preferable month for successful apricot grafting. August is also a good month for residents of warm regions - the plant will have time to take root.
What fruit trees can be grafted with?
It is not necessary to graft apricots with relatives - excellent results are obtained using other crops.The main thing is to first find out with which plants the grafting will be most effective.
Apricots can be grafted onto the following crops:
- To the plum. Use only semi-wild varieties. A pinched tree will have endurance and durability.
- On a peach. It is recommended to carry out grafting only in warm regions - the peach is not frost-resistant, so it easily dies in severe frosts.
- For cherries. A risky process - the graft survival rate is low. Another disadvantage is that the place where the cutting took root often breaks even with weak gusts of wind.
- To the cherry. As with cherries, the survival rate is low, and the cut points often break.
- For cherry plum. By crossing two crops, you can grow an excellent tree - undemanding to the composition of the soil, resistant to frost and drought.
It is better for beginners to try their hand at grafting suitable crops that have characteristics similar to apricot. Only after the first successful experiment should we proceed to more capricious plants.
Harvesting cuttings
The recommended length of cuttings is no more than 15-17 cm. Be sure to make sure that they have 4-6 full healthy buds. In autumn, harvesting is carried out after the leaves have dropped - in November. After tying, send them into bundles for storage; a cool room is suitable for this. If there are a lot of cuttings, use furrows dug in the soil for storage - lay plant materials tightly, sprinkle with sawdust, straw, dig in with soil.
Before frost, cover with spruce branches and cover with fallen snow.
If harvesting occurs in spring or summer, it is recommended to use fresh cuttings that have grown after winter. Capture a little of last year's growth, and be sure to remove the top bud.It is better to vaccinate with green shoots - the survival rate increases significantly.
Varieties and technologies
A prerequisite for a successful procedure, regardless of the chosen method of implementation, is to make the cut quite high from the ground surface. The distance from the soil to the cutting line is up to 30 cm. For mature trees it can be increased to one meter.
Check the cuttings before sending them to the garden. It is recommended to make a fresh cut under the bud - experienced gardeners claim that this will increase survival rate.
Copulation
Use this method only for spring grafting. It is recommended to carry out the same diameter of scion and rootstock. The process is carried out in two ways - oblique cuts are fixed or a tongue is made on the rootstock, and a depression is made on the scion (this technique is more effective).
The cut is fixed with adhesive tape, garden varnish, and film. During the first year, carefully monitor the condition of the plant. A month after the procedure, loosen the bandage slightly, and after six months, remove the fixing layer.
Into the cleft
Used when there is a difference in the diameters of the scion and rootstock. Use the cleft technique only in spring or early summer.
Carrying out the procedure:
- Cut the tree to the required height and carefully clean the cut.
- Using a sharp knife, split the trunk in the middle to a depth of 3-5 cm.
- Turn the tip of the handle into a wedge (cut on both sides or in a circle).
- Insert one or two scions into the gap.
- Tighten the trunk with tape, secure it, and pour it tightly with garden varnish.
If you pin it successfully, the first leaves will begin to bloom in a month. Remove the bandage after six months.
Budding
Apricot grafting using the budding method is rarely carried out; the survival rate is too low.It is recommended to use green shoots, which are cut off before the procedure. There should be 2-3 buds on the cuttings. It is better to cut under the eye.
Make a cut on the main tree (up to 3 cm high). Bend back the bark and insert the cut stalk. Fix using garden varnish and tape.
For the bark
The procedure is carried out on mature trees. The process can be applied at any time of the year. After cutting the trunk, pointed cuttings are inserted behind the cut bark and secured with electrical tape. It is recommended to graft several shoots onto one trunk, at least one of them will definitely take root.
Into the side cut
The process is reminiscent of budding. The only difference is that the cut on the side is much larger; several cuttings can be placed in it. The chances of good survival are significantly increased, at least one of them will certainly produce leaves.
Bridge
This method is usually used on apricots damaged by rodents in winter. The process is simple - remove the affected parts of the bark, insert the prepared cuttings as if into a pocket (strengthen at the top and bottom), and secure. Be sure to leave the bandage on for several months; it is better to remove it in the fall.
Tree care after grafting
Much of the survival rate of cuttings also depends on how properly the care is provided. There are few rules:
- be sure to remove the shoots that grow thickly near the trunk; numerous shoots actively consume nutrients from the soil, weakening the tree;
- If, during grafting, the cut is tightly wrapped, make sure that the trunk is not overtightened; after a month, loosen the bandage;
- the engraftment period is considered to be the entire current year; pruning the tree is allowed only after a successful winter;
- every beginning of the month during the warm season, add nutrients; apricots desperately need a lot of useful substances to restore strength.
Young leaves must be protected from pests and diseases - spraying, using traditional methods. Water the grafted tree with caution and avoid overwatering. Do not use fertilizing for the first year after surgery.
Grafting an apricot, if you carefully understand the technology, is not difficult. The main thing is to strictly follow the requirements and rules, check the quality of the cuttings in advance, and not engage in experiments that are dangerous to the plants. If you avoid mistakes, you will certainly be able to grow a tree that, in just 2-3 years, will delight its owners with a bountiful harvest of sweet fruits.
