3-4 years after planting, the strawberry bush thickens. Many horns grow on it, which begin to compete for sunlight and food. Productivity is decreasing. The situation can be corrected by propagating strawberries by dividing the bush in August. Below is information about how to correctly carry out the procedure on a garden plot, as well as about typical mistakes made by farmers.
Advantages and disadvantages of the method
Propagating strawberries by dividing an old bush has the following advantages:
- simplicity and accessibility of the method;
- good survival rate of bushes;
- the possibility of harvesting from the mother plant this year;
- Fruiting of young bushes occurs already in the next season;
- productivity increases;
- the new plants retain their parental characteristics.
Many gardeners prefer to grow remontant strawberries because they produce crops twice a year. But some varieties do not form whiskers, which quickly propagate strawberries. Therefore, dividing the bush is the only option for its propagation. No disadvantages were identified in the method.
Additional Information. 110 grams of strawberries contain a daily dose of vitamin C.
When is the best time to do this?
The sooner the bush is divided and replanted, the faster the young horns will take root in the new location. If the procedure is performed in the fall, there is a possibility that the strawberries will freeze in the harsh winter. And even if it survives, it may not produce a harvest.
Therefore, it is best to replant garden strawberries in the summer or at the very beginning of autumn. Bushes planted in August have time to take root and adapt to new conditions before the onset of frost. Only healthy plants without signs of disease or pest damage should be planted.
How to propagate strawberries by dividing the bush
If the procedure is carried out correctly, fruiting will occur as early as the next season. Choose a sunny, well-ventilated place. The planting method is chosen to be one-line or two-line. The last method allows you to save territory. Separated rosettes are planted at a distance of 25 centimeters from each other.
Selection of mother bushes
Experienced gardeners have beds with strawberry bushes of different ages. 2-4 year old plants can be propagated.The older the culture, the more young horns grow on it. There is no point in keeping plants older than 4 years in the garden, since the berries become smaller and the yield decreases.
Healthy bushes are chosen for propagation. They should not be affected by diseases and pests. In spring or early summer, pegs can be driven in near the most fruit-bearing plants. In August they begin to transplant them.
How to divide correctly?
The selected bushes are divided as follows:
- strawberries are dug up from all sides with a sharp shovel;
- the roots are shaken off the ground, yellow and dry leaves are removed;
- the root system is placed in a container filled with a solution of potassium permanganate;
- each horn is carefully separated by hand from the mother plant;
- Damaged parts are cut off and sprinkled with wood ash for disinfection.
It happens that 2 horns grow on one root. It can be cut in half with a sharp knife, and each bush can be planted separately.
Important! To prevent pathogenic microorganisms from entering the horns, the cut parts are treated with antifungal drugs. The root system can be placed in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30-40 minutes.
Planting horns for growing
If the bush had a lot of small horns with a small root system, they are grown. To do this, select small pots, preferably peat ones.
The transplant is done as follows:
- containers are filled ⅔ full with a substrate consisting of garden soil and peat;
- a horn is placed in the center;
- fill the soil up to the root collar;
- water abundantly;
- cover the pots with film or bring them into the greenhouse.
The horns can be planted in a permanent place in 1-1.5 months. The disadvantage of this method is that the bushes will hurt when planted in open ground. If the horns are planted in peat pots, the further procedure will be less painful.In this case, the bushes do not need to be shaken out: they are planted with containers.
Further care
Caring for strawberries involves timely watering, loosening the soil, and removing plant debris from the garden.
Watering
The bushes are watered abundantly when planting. Then the amount of moisture introduced will depend on the rainfall. In dry weather, the land is irrigated often, since strawberries are a moisture-loving crop. In this case, you need to ensure that water does not stagnate at the roots. Excess moisture promotes the formation of fungal diseases.
Note! In order for garden strawberries to safely survive winter frosts, in mid-autumn they are watered abundantly.
Top dressing
Fertilize strawberries during spring transplantation. Complex mineral compositions are used. During flowering, foliar irrigation with nutrients can be carried out. When replanting in late summer or autumn, no fertilizing is done.
Loosening
1-2 days after watering, the soil around the plants is loosened. At the same time, weeds are removed that interfere with the development of strawberries. The procedure prevents the formation of a crust on the soil surface. Loosening promotes air access deep into the ground. The work is done carefully, since garden strawberries have a shallow root system.
Protection from diseases and pests
For prevention, plants are treated with special preparations, according to the instructions on the packaging. Yellow, dry leaves are cut off. Plant debris is removed from the root circle, since pathogenic microorganisms and insect larvae can overwinter in them.
Common mistakes
Inexperienced gardeners make mistakes when transplanting strawberries. As a result, the crop becomes sick, does not bear fruit, or disappears altogether.Typical errors are as follows:
- Failure to comply with crop rotation. Strawberries do not develop well in the area where nightshade crops grew. Root secretions remain in the ground, inhibiting garden strawberries. The best predecessors are legumes, carrots, radishes, greens, onions, garlic.
- Late transplant. The crop must be planted in the ground at least a month before the onset of cold weather. Otherwise, in winter it may freeze.
- Abundant application of nitrogen. The nutrient promotes the development of the green part of plants. Excess nitrogen in the soil prevents flowering and fruiting of the crop.
- Frequent watering. Strawberries are moisture-loving. But if the soil does not have time to dry out between waterings, the root system may be susceptible to fungal diseases.
- The bushes are planted too deep. The root collar of garden strawberries should be on the surface of the soil. If buried, the crop may not begin to bear fruit.
- Deep loosening of the soil is carried out. The root system of strawberries is superficial. Deep loosening may damage the roots.
- For the winter, the bushes are covered with film. Under non-breathable covering material, bushes can dry out. On the eve of a harsh winter, plants are covered with spruce branches and agrofibre.
Growing strawberries in August is a simple but responsible process. By following all the rules of planting and care, the gardener will enjoy tasty, healthy berries next season.
