Growing, planting and caring for dahlias in open ground

Professionals know quite a lot about dahlias, as well as planting these flowers and the conditions for caring for them in the open ground. The nuances of planting relate to the choice of location (private plot, park, gardening) and climate zone. Flowers grow in cold climates (Siberia, Ural) and warm areas. Dahlias have a short growing season, this is a definite plus, which allows them to be cultivated in different temperature conditions - from the Central Belt of the Russian Federation to the Caucasus.

Description and characteristics of the flower

The plant belongs to the extensive family Asteraceae or Asteraceae. The scientific name - Dahlia - comes from the name of the famous Swedish botanist Anders Dahl. Cultivated in gardens and parks, dahlias are nothing more than a cultural hybrid obtained after the painstaking work of enthusiasts and repeated interspecific crossings.

Wild plants grow in Central and South America, they are very different from their descendants. More than 15 thousand species of dahlias are known in the world. Groups of flowers (about 10) are formed according to their characteristic characteristics.

The plant is a perennial. The roots form a tuber. The stem of the dahlia is smooth and straight, rising to a height of up to 2 meters. Leaves with a dense structure, dark green (less often purple) hue. The flowering period of the plant occurs in August-September, so dahlias are a frequent and welcome guest in autumn bouquets and compositions.

The dahlia inflorescence is basket-shaped, the flower petals look like tongues. With the onset of frost, the plants are removed from the soil, the stems are separated from the tubers and stored in a cool, dry place. There are also “annual” flowers - those that are grown from seeds. The division is conditional, since in the fall dahlias form tubers, which are used for subsequent planting and propagation of the plant.

Types of dahlias

There are several tens of thousands of flower species, so in order to somehow understand this diversity, we decided to divide plants into groups according to appearance and characteristics.Botanists distinguish the following types of dahlias:

1. Simple (non-double).
2. Anemone-like.
3. Collared.
4. Peony-shaped.
5. Decorative.
6. Ball-shaped.
7. Pompons.
8. Cactus.
9. Semi-cactus.
10. Nymphaeaceae.
11. Mixed.

In addition to those given, there may be other varieties, since the family is very extensive and is constantly replenished with new species.

Single row

Common (single) varieties known as Dahila Single. They are identified by tubular petals (of which there are more), and along the edge there is a row of pseudolingulate petals. They have famous representatives who are popular - the Dutch variety Happy Kiss, with bright orange buds, a large inflorescence measuring 100 millimeters. At the same time, the bushes planted are small, no higher than half a meter.

Another characteristic specimen belonging to this type of dahlia is Romeo. It is deep red, up to 55 centimeters high, slightly darker in the center. Leaves are bronze in color.

Anemoneaceae

Introducing the next group of semi-double or anemone dahlias. In the inflorescence, 2 rows of reed petals are clearly distinguished. The colors are either monochrome or with a contrastingly colored middle. There are low- and tall-growing dahlias, respectively, the height ranges from 20 to 80 centimeters.

Cactaceae

These dahlias have inflorescences formed by numerous “needles” - tubular petals thinned at the end. In general, the flower resembles a cactus, hence the name. The color range is wide - from monochromatic to multi-colored lush terry buds. The most common representatives of the species are Acapulco, Cherio, Lemon.

Semi-cactus

They are considered an interspecific filler between cactus and decorative dahlias. The inflorescence of the plant is double, with wide petals that are folded at the base and form a characteristic tongue.Species - Mick's Peppermint, Aspen. Dahlias reach a height of up to 130 centimeters, the size of a bud is up to 200 millimeters.

Globular

With this dahlia variety, everything is relatively simple: the inflorescence forms the correct shape of a ball. The petals are wide, dense, wider at the end than at the base. The tips may have a slight rounding. The size of the “ball” is up to 200 millimeters. Famous representatives - Rocco, Noreen, Little Robert.

Nymphaeal

Beautiful, gracefully shaped plants belong to the double group, and look like water lilies. The bud size is up to 200 millimeters, the height of the bush reaches 10 centimeters.

Pompons

The ball-shaped inflorescence resembles a lush pompom with petals rolled into a tube. The size of the bud is from 5 centimeters or more. Dahlia bushes are medium-sized, up to 120 centimeters tall. Well-known varieties are Hallmark (lavender), Willo's Violet (lilac) and Noreen (pale pink).

Collar

The outer row of petals form a characteristic “collar”, often adjacent to it are shorter and differently colored lobes. There are combinations of scarlet and yellow (La Gioconda), cream and gold (Claire de Luna) or red (Chimborazo). The size of the plant inflorescence is up to 100 millimeters, with a plant height of about 120 centimeters.

Decorative

They are distinguished by small, graceful inflorescences, although large ones are also found (up to 250 millimeters in diameter). Bushes dahlia low growing, up to 60 centimeters. Species common in garden plots are orange David Howard, golden Thames Valley, lilac Jocondo.

Mixed

An extensive group that unites plants that, for some reason, do not fit into the standard classification. It can be color (black-red, almost uniform dark) or shape.More often, some rare hybrids are mixed, in which breeders seek to combine many qualities. Thus, for many years attempts to breed blue dahlias have remained unsuccessful.

Reproduction

Having briefly studied the variety of plant varieties, gardeners begin to quite reasonably become interested in how to propagate this miracle and what is necessary for planting. The following options are offered - cuttings, tubers or seeds. Each of them has unique advantages, which will be discussed below.

By cuttings

The appearance of green cuttings in dahlias, which serve as the basis of the method, is preceded by planting tubers. Pre-prepared seed is placed in pots with a substrate and they begin to wait. After 14-21 days, the shoots should rise to a height of 80-100 millimeters, this is enough to obtain cuttings.

They work in 2 ways: cutting out the stem at the base or breaking it off with a piece of tuber. Preference is given to thick, strong stems - they have a higher chance of success. The cut is made immediately under the leaf node, approximately 3-5 millimeters from the petioles. If you work carefully, there will be enough material for both petioles with a heel and for planting dahlias with tubers.

By dividing the tuber

To “save” on planting material, you should divide the dahlia tuber into several parts. It is advisable that a pair of buds remain on each segment (one is not enough, but it will do). For weak buds, it is allowed to take a fragment of 2-3 articulated nodules. You can also divide by cutting the rhizome in half, observing the specified conditions. The knife must be cleaned and disinfected so as not to infect the plants.

Landing Features

Growing healthy, beautiful flowers is difficult, but possible.To do this, they determine the timing (spring, autumn), planting method and wait for the right moment. You should prepare the soil in advance, as well as supports - growing plants will need them. It doesn't hurt to worry about fertilizers, but only within reasonable limits. It’s good if the future planting site is not in the shade - sunlight is important for dahlias.

When to plant dahlias?

The specific time for planting a plant depends on climatic conditions, the chosen method, and the experience of the grower. In the spring, in the first or second decade of May, dahlias are planted by dividing the tubers, when the soil has already warmed up sufficiently. Even earlier planting is allowed, but there is a risk of destroying the plant if it is not protected from frost.

In the fall, the stronger bushes are prepared for wintering (if you do not plan to dig them up for tubers). To do this, hilling is carried out by 150-200 millimeters to protect against freezing. If the planting is obviously deep, there is no need for this procedure.

Preparation of planting material

To grow healthy and strong dahlias from seeds, you will need:

1. Prepare the seed fund.
2. Provide fertilized, sufficiently loose soil.

Dahlia seeds are large and easy to plant. You will need seed boxes or trays in which future garden beauties will grow. The earthen mixture is prepared from soil, humus (compost) and river sand. It is very important that the substrate is permeable to moisture and air, and moderately loose. Preference is given to healthy, strong seeds, without signs of disease or pest damage.

Choosing a landing site

There are 2 options: planting in open ground or indoors for seedlings. When planting in rows, follow the rule of 3-4 centimeters between seeds. The shallowly planted material is sprinkled with soil and covered with film.

Temperature and humidity conditions are important for dahlias: heat - up to 25 degrees, with regular ventilation to prevent the occurrence of fungi. In a week, sprouts are expected to appear. Then the boxes are moved to a sunny place (the film is removed). For dahlias planted immediately in a flowerbed, choose a lighted place with well-fertilized soil. You can start preparing the land in advance, in the fall, so that you can start planting in the spring.

Open ground planting technology

Planting ready-made dahlia seedlings in open ground is not difficult if you follow certain recommendations. The soil should be fertile, the place should be lighted and protected from drafts. Usually transplantation is done at the end of May, when it is already warm enough.

Dahlia seedlings are carefully transferred to the beds, trying not to damage the roots and stem, and supports are immediately installed for support (especially for tall varieties). For tuberous propagation, the size of the hole is chosen at the rate of exactly 3 times larger than the underground part of the plant (approximately 40x40x40 centimeters). All that remains is to provide the plants with fertilizing and care, and a beautiful flower garden is guaranteed.

Plant care

“Maintenance” of dahlias includes fertilizing, staking and pruning. This also includes watering (regular, but not excessive), loosening, weeding and mulching.

Fertilizer

During the growing season, dahlias are fertilized twice a month. Fertilizers – organic matter, minerals. Add them one by one without mixing. Cow dung diluted with water (1 to 20) works well. Ammonium nitrate is added at the rate of 15 grams per square meter. After the first buds on the plants peck, they switch to superphosphate and potassium complexes (aqueous solutions).

Support

Dahlias have fragile stems, so they need reliable support.These can be trellises, racks, pipes driven into the ground. Sometimes it is possible to save even a broken stem by placing a splint on it from a twig or a flat board. The plant cured in this way begins to bloom like a healthy one.

Trimming

It is recommended to prune dahlias in order to properly form their crown and control the growth of the plant. When growing from a tuber, they usually leave a couple of shoots and remove the rest. In the cutting form, a single stem will be sufficient. Although sometimes, to make a dahlia bush look more presentable, they pinch the top, getting 2 stems.

Large-flowered forms of the plant are processed differently: the side shoots growing from the axils (stepchildren) are completely cut off. This is done so that developing sprouts do not slow down the development of inflorescences or suppress the central trunk. Pruning is used regularly - as soon as the dahlias have been planted, and before the buds begin to set.

Pests and diseases

Dahlias are susceptible to disease and can also be affected by pests, so gardeners are responsible for knowing how to manage symptoms.

Spots on the foliage are a consequence of insufficient ventilation and excessively frequent planting of bushes. They begin with yellowish-green formations, gradually turning into a brownish-gray tone. First, the damaged areas are removed, and then you need to treat the bush with fungicides. As a last resort, the dahlia bush will have to be destroyed so as not to harm neighboring plants.

White rot (a fungal form) affects growing and mature dahlias. The reason is usually hidden in the wrong choice of planting depth. It is treated with Fundazol, Gamair, and other fungicidal drugs.

Plants are attacked by crawling and flying insects - caterpillars, butterflies.Both mechanical destruction of pests (for small volumes of damage) and insecticide treatment are used.

Aphids are especially dangerous, establishing their colonies on many garden plants. Damaged leaves are torn off and burned, the remaining parts are sprayed with pesticides. Prevention will greatly facilitate the fight against pests and diseases. It includes regular inspection and destruction of local lesions.

Digging up tubers

In autumn, perennial dahlias are dug up for tubers. This is done carefully so as not to damage the underground part. It is believed that a long stay in the ground (before the first frost) contributes to the formation and preservation of the tuber.

First, cut off the stems of the plant. This is done with a sharp knife or pruning shears, then the cut is closed to prevent contact with moisture. Before starting work, be sure to identify dahlia bushes; in the future, after cutting the stem, it will become problematic to determine the species and varietal identity of the tuber.

Before digging, the tuber is dug in on 4 sides, then taken out along with a lump of earth. Next, wash off the remaining soil and allow the rhizome to dry to ensure its preservation for the winter.

Storing dahlias in winter

Plants marked and sorted by type of tubers are transferred for storage. How exactly to store dahlias before planting - after waxing, in sand, before drying them in vermiculite or in another of the hundreds of existing methods - it’s up to the gardener to decide. The main condition is a temperature in the range from 0 to 10 degrees, average humidity.

Problems during cultivation

Beginning plant growers face various difficulties associated with the development of a new species - dahlia.It is not always possible to achieve flowering; planted plants are attacked by pests and viruses, and may die due to waterlogging. Don’t forget about the fragility of the stem and its susceptibility to damage from gusts of wind.

At the first signs of damage to dahlias by insects and diseases, urgent measures are taken - destruction of damaged parts of the plant, treatment with chemicals.

Features of cultivation in different regions

In different climatic zones, dahlias begin to be planted in accordance with the local calendar. Approximately, the plant is usually planted in May, but in cold regions, in the Urals and Siberia, this period shifts to June.

After planting, dahlias need constant positive temperature, humidity and sunlight.

In the absence of one of these factors, the formation of the trunk, buds, leaves, and inflorescences of the plant occurs with a delay, and sometimes even slows down altogether.